Nails for Siding: Choosing the Right Type, Size and Finish
The right siding nail is corrosion-resistant, has a ring or spiral shank, and carries a head wide enough to hold the siding without crushing it. For wood and fiber cement, that means a ring- or spiral-shank nail in double hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel. For vinyl, it means a spiral-shank nail with a large head, driven loose enough that the panel can move. At Polar Tool & Supply we stock siding nails in coil and stick collations, and we deliver free to jobsites within 50 miles of our locations.
Key Takeaways
- Use ring- or spiral-shank nails for wood and fiber cement siding, and spiral-shank nails with a large head for vinyl, per the JLC exteriors field guide.
- Choose double hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel. The U.S. residential code requires corrosion-resistant fasteners.
- A ring-shank nail holds 50% to 100% better than a smooth-shank nail of the same size.
- Vinyl needs room to expand and contract, so leave a small gap under the nail head and never drive it tight.
- A 15-gauge finish nailer is a trim tool. Use a siding or coil nailer for the actual siding.
Table of Contents
- Which Nails Work for Each Siding Type
- Shank Types: Why Ring and Spiral Win
- Coatings and Materials: What Resists Corrosion
- Length, Gauge and Head Size
- How to Nail Siding Correctly
- Nailer, Compressor and Staples
- Nails or Screws for Wood Siding
- Safety on the Wall
- Order Siding Nails for Your Jobsite
- FAQ
- Sources
Which Nails Work for Each Siding Type
Siding material decides the nail. Get that match right and everything else (length, head, gun) follows.
| Siding | Shank | Head | Material |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wood (lap, board and batten, shingles) | Ring or spiral | Standard siding head | Double hot-dipped galvanized or stainless |
| Fiber cement | Ring or spiral | Blind nails: at least 1/4 inch. Face nails: larger, roofing-style head | Double hot-dipped galvanized or stainless |
| Vinyl | Spiral | Large, flat | Galvanized or aluminum |
The shank and material guidance for wood, fiber cement and vinyl comes from the JLC exteriors field guide, which also gives the fiber cement head sizes. Always read the siding maker’s installation sheet too. It overrides general rules, and warranties often depend on it.
Wood siding
Wood moves with humidity, and it splits if the nail is too thick. Ring- or spiral-shank nails grip the fibers and resist backing out as boards swell and shrink. Penetration matters: wood siding nails should reach at least 1-1/4 inches into solid backing, according to the same field guide. Our 1-1/8 inch by .117 tetraGRIP galvanized steel siding nail is one option for thinner siding over sheathing and framing, so match the length to your siding thickness plus the penetration you need.
Fiber cement siding
Fiber cement is dense and unforgiving. A nail that is too small in the head can pull through, and a nail that is not corrosion-resistant stains and fails. The field guide calls for a head of at least 1/4 inch on blind nails and a larger roofing-nail head on face nails. Stainless steel or double hot-dipped galvanized is the standard choice. If you work near the coast, Type 316 stainless is the grade used there, while Type 304 suits most other applications.
Vinyl siding
Vinyl is different from the rest: the nail is not meant to clamp anything. CertainTeed’s installation guide says to center each nail in its slot and leave 1/8 to 1/16 inch between the nail head and the nail hem. It also stresses that the siding must move freely as it expands and contracts. That is why vinyl nails have wide, flat heads: they hold the panel in place without pinning it.
Shank Types: Why Ring and Spiral Win
A smooth-shank nail depends on friction alone. Ring-shank and spiral-shank nails lock into the wood as it moves. The JLC field guide puts the gain at 50% to 100% more holding power for a ring-shank nail than a smooth-shank nail. On a wall that sees sun, rain, freezing and thawing, that margin is what keeps boards from working loose and nail heads from popping.
Smooth-shank siding nails still have their place where the manufacturer specifies them, but when you have a choice, ring or spiral is the safer default. In our catalog you will find both styles, such as the 2 inch ring-shank siding nails, the 2-1/2 inch smooth coil siding nails and the 1-1/4 inch coil siding ring nails.
Coatings and Materials: What Resists Corrosion
Siding nails live outdoors, often behind a thin layer of paint or vinyl, and moisture reaches them. Bare steel is out.
- Double hot-dipped galvanized: a thick zinc coating that suits most wood and fiber cement jobs. This is the workhorse.
- Stainless steel: the best choice for cedar and other tannin-rich woods that streak, and for wet or coastal sites. Type 304 covers most uses, and Type 316 is used in coastal areas.
- Aluminum: common with aluminum and vinyl siding, where matching metals avoids staining.
- Electrogalvanized: a thin coating that is fine for dry interior work but is not the pick for exterior siding.
The code backs this up. IRC section R703.3.3 requires corrosion-resistant nails or staples, or other approved corrosion-resistant fasteners, in line with the code table or the manufacturer’s instructions. Nails and staples must comply with ASTM F1667. Local codes can add to this, so check with your building department.
Length, Gauge and Head Size
A simple rule covers length: the nail must pass through the siding, any sheathing or foam, and then reach solid framing or backing. For wood siding, the field guide sets the penetration at 1-1/4 inches minimum. The manufacturer of one fiber-based product, KWP Eco-side, asks for 1-1/4 inches into solid backing, or 1-1/8 inches with spiral nails. That is a Canadian installation guide for one product, but it shows how spiral shanks can earn a slightly shorter embedment.
To work out your length:
- Measure the siding thickness where it is thickest, at the lap.
- Add any sheathing, furring or rigid insulation.
- Add the required penetration into framing.
- Round up to the next available length.
For example, 1/2 inch siding over 1/2 inch sheathing needs about 1 inch of nail to clear both layers, plus 1-1/4 inches of penetration, so a 2-1/4 inch nail is the right pick. Our 2-1/4 inch hot-dipped galvanized 15° coil siding nails fit that kind of build, and the 2-1/2 inch version covers thicker stacks.
Head size is the other number. A head that is too small pulls through the siding. Too large and it can be hard to set flush. Follow the siding manufacturer’s table, and use the fiber cement guidance above if that is your material.
How to Nail Siding Correctly
The nail is only half of it. Placement and depth decide whether the wall lasts.
- Find the framing. Wood siding joints should land on studs or solid blocking, per the wood siding guidance. Mark stud lines before you start.
- Prime cut ends. Trade associations recommend back-priming and priming the cut ends of wood siding, because end grain soaks up water.
- Place the nail where the manufacturer says. For KWP Eco-side, that is 3/4 inch from the top edge, with nails no more than 16 inches apart. Other products differ, so check the sheet.
- Drive to flush, not deeper. The KWP guide says not to countersink. Overdriving crushes the surface and weakens the hold.
- For vinyl, leave the gap. Center the nail in the slot and keep 1/8 to 1/16 inch under the head so the panel can slide.
- Check your compressor and gun settings on a scrap piece first. Depth control on a siding nailer lets you dial in flush driving across the whole job.
A level wall course keeps every nail line straight, which also keeps spacing consistent. Our levels are worth having on the wall for the starter course in particular.
Nailer, Compressor and Staples
Siding goes faster with a gun. A coil siding nailer holds a few hundred nails and drives 15° wire- or plastic-collated coils, which is why many siding nails are sold in that form. If you are running a pneumatic gun, you will also need a compressor sized for the work. Browse our nail guns and compressors, including models from Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee and Metabo HPT.
Can you use a 15-gauge finish nailer for siding?
Not for the siding itself. A 15-gauge finish nailer is built for heavier trim, casing and baseboard, and its small-headed nails do not match the head sizes siding requires. Use a siding nailer for the boards and keep the finish nailer for trim and window casing around them.
Staples
The IRC allows staples for some siding applications. Per the code text, they must have at least a 7/16 inch crown and be made of at least 16-gauge wire. If your siding manufacturer approves staples, we carry galvanized options such as the 1/2 by 1-3/4 inch galvanized staples. Browse all staples and confirm the product is approved for your siding first.
Nails or Screws for Wood Siding
Nails are the norm for most siding because they are fast and flexible with the wall. Screws earn their place on dense material. Irish timber cladding guidance recommends screws for hardwoods and higher-density timbers, to resist the distortion forces in the boards. If you are cladding with a hardwood like that, use stainless screws and pre-drill where the maker says to. We carry screws alongside our nails, so you can match the fastener to the board.
Safety on the Wall
Siding work means ladders, scaffolds and nail guns. Wear eye protection every time you pull the trigger, hearing protection near a compressor, and gloves when you handle cut fiber cement or metal trim. Fiber cement cutting makes fine silica-containing dust, so use the dust controls and respiratory protection the siding maker and OSHA guidance call for. Our safety gear category covers the basics for a siding crew.
Order Siding Nails for Your Jobsite
Polar Tool & Supply has been a family-owned supplier of construction tools, fasteners and jobsite essentials since 2007. Tell our staff the siding type, the sheathing and the gun you run, and they will help you pick the right nail and collation. Orders for local businesses ship free to jobsites within 50 miles of our business locations, so the nails arrive when the crew does.
Start with our siding and coil nails, then add the nail gun or batteries and abrasives you need. For delivery details, see Polar Tool & Supply. We also resell Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Metabo HPT and Bosch tools, and we offer authorized repair for Makita tools.
FAQ
What is the best nail for siding?
For wood and fiber cement, a double hot-dipped galvanized or stainless ring- or spiral-shank nail is the standard. For vinyl, use a spiral-shank nail with a large head, galvanized or aluminum. Always confirm against the siding manufacturer’s installation instructions.
How far should a siding nail go into the wall?
Wood siding nails should penetrate at least 1-1/4 inches into solid backing, according to the JLC field guide. Some manufacturers allow 1-1/8 inches with spiral nails. Drive the nail flush with the surface without countersinking it.
Should vinyl siding nails be driven tight?
No. Center the nail in the slot and leave 1/8 to 1/16 inch between the head and the siding so the panel can expand and contract freely. Tight nails cause buckling in temperature swings.
Are galvanized or stainless nails better for siding?
Both meet the corrosion-resistance requirement when they are the right grade. Double hot-dipped galvanized suits most jobs. Stainless, Type 304 for most applications and Type 316 near the coast, is the choice for wet conditions and for woods that stain.
Can I use staples instead of nails?
The IRC allows staples for some siding, with at least a 7/16 inch crown and 16-gauge wire minimum. Check that your siding manufacturer approves staples before you use them.
Sources
- JLC Field Guide: Exteriors, siding fasteners
- IRC wall covering attachments, UpCodes
- KWP Eco-side installation guide
- CertainTeed vinyl siding installation guide
- Installing wood wall siding, InspectAPedia
- External timber cladding guidance, COFORD
